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Post by dishmando on Nov 29, 2014 23:21:51 GMT -5
Brand new battery Steve. Plus I've used a booster to maintain charge while performing diagnostics. I'm pointing at the CDI and coil on this one. I hate to throw parts at it, but found a guy who's willing to sell both for a fair price. If you're saying continuity. If I recall, there's 2 for sure, maybe 3 harnesses coming out of the CDI. I'll check them all since I'm not sure which ones to check specifically. I hate just checking continuity honestly, id rather have a spec to go by. You know as well as me that if one single strand of wire is still good in there, it'll show continuity. But not be able to perform properly.
Anyhow..... When I get a chance, I'll head to buddy's place and do a few checks.
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Post by dishmando on Nov 30, 2014 18:00:41 GMT -5
I hear ya there sleddingboy, but my issue now is a complete no start, with no spark to either plug.
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Post by dishmando on Dec 1, 2014 10:39:55 GMT -5
What's funny is I contacted a guy. He gives me a price I thought was fair. Then I checked Royal Dist. site, and the parts were the same price. Lol IIll be getting new instead of used. I'd hate to get stranded on the lake like I was last year! That sux!
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Post by ScubaSteve on Dec 1, 2014 11:51:00 GMT -5
Brand new battery Steve. Plus I've used a booster to maintain charge while performing diagnostics. I'm pointing at the CDI and coil on this one. I hate to throw parts at it, but found a guy who's willing to sell both for a fair price. If you're saying continuity. If I recall, there's 2 for sure, maybe 3 harnesses coming out of the CDI. I'll check them all since I'm not sure which ones to check specifically. I hate just checking continuity honestly, id rather have a spec to go by. You know as well as me that if one single strand of wire is still good in there, it'll show continuity. But not be able to perform properly. Anyhow..... When I get a chance, I'll head to buddy's place and do a few checks. I dont know much about cdi I am used to contactor points. There should be 2 wires going to the spark plug coil if it is a 2 cylinder. The best way to check continuity of cdi and coil is with a test light. Get a spark spark tester, then turn crankshaft by hand, when the piston gets to the ignition position of the cycle the light should light up. Inline Spark Tester. Resistance values for ignition coils: Primary windings = x amount of ohms (Check you manual) Secondary windings = x amount of ohms (Check your manual) The spark tester should verify continuity between battery, cdi, spark coil, and spark plug. as far as further testing of cdi unit, like I said It is difficult, and the best and fastest way is to have a spare that came from a running bike. Good luck hope you get your sled working right.
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Post by ScubaSteve on Dec 1, 2014 15:18:49 GMT -5
But before you do that check continuity, or bypass the kill switch to rule that out of the equation.
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Post by dishmando on Dec 2, 2014 0:21:55 GMT -5
Yea, done the quick check of unplugging and eliminating the handlebar controls from the question. It's definitely motor side. I'll do some quick continuity checks that Steve layed out, then that should point my problem out. I'm guessing CDI at this point. We'll shortly see. Once thats all figured out, it's off to the ministry I go. Then call my Insurance company. THEN, it's hurry, Cooks and Kempenfelt...... Freeze up!
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Post by dishmando on Dec 2, 2014 11:19:41 GMT -5
Not sure about under control! Lol But I'll definitely keep posting.
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Post by sash on Dec 2, 2014 20:03:58 GMT -5
that sucks, it would be nice if there was a wire that was just pinched when u put the tank on and u just need to fix that wire, in my career i had very few cdi's go on me and the check on japanese bikes was to check every component and the wires in between. don't forget to check the pick up coil(s) resistence checks are good but a peak voltage adapter is even better. after when we checked everything and thought it was a cdi we would ground the plugs turn off the lights turn the motor over and start smackin the cdi against the frame or work bench to see if that would get it to spark 1 last time before we ordered the expensive cdi.
pete's cycle and sleds north of belleville he sold used parts for sleds and atv's and had a wealth of knowledge on fixing and what goes wrong on certain models, he would say something like "oh yeah a cdi on 83 citation i wish i had 20 to fix all the ones i have out back with the same problem"
613 475 6129
hope it helps
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Post by dishmando on Dec 2, 2014 21:05:25 GMT -5
Awesome tip sash. And I'll definitely give the number a call. One thing though.....am I asking for Pete himself? Lol
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Post by sash on Dec 2, 2014 21:41:35 GMT -5
it was always pete that answered the phone, but yeah ask for him, he was a 1 man show and we called him speedy pete cause he was always in a rush, i hope he is still in business.
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Post by dishmando on Dec 2, 2014 22:22:27 GMT -5
I'll be calling tomorrow. Thanks again!
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Post by dishmando on Dec 7, 2014 18:48:44 GMT -5
Well, plugged the new CDI in, and WHAMMO! She's on fire once again. So with that spark issue resolved, it's onto this idle issue.
Quick question, on the "pulse" fuel line that goes into the carb (one of only 2), should this line be FULL of fuel at all times. Meaning, no visible air pockets? Just asking, because, while this thing is running, and it'll run for a while before the idle drops down to 2k, I always see an air pocket where it starts to curve into the carb.. Issue or not? Everything fuel related is brand new from inside the tank to the carb, so I just figure this may be normal.
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Post by dishmando on Dec 7, 2014 22:54:07 GMT -5
I fire it up, it starts revving at 3-3500 rpm.......I'll tinker with the idle jet a little..... It comes down to 2K..... Stays there for about 10-15 seconds, then wants to quit, unless I blip the throttle. If I do, it repeats the same action all over again,
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Post by dishmando on Dec 8, 2014 10:32:41 GMT -5
No. I may try the ole brake Kleen spray while its runnin..... I'll post results.
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Post by ScubaSteve on Dec 8, 2014 11:20:53 GMT -5
so it revs up then down and wants to quit. sounds like a seal leak in the crank. do you have a vacuum gauge? Crank seals are easy to replace and may be worth doing if it is leaking a bit. Although, if it is running at all I would doubt it has a compression issue. You can remove the old seal by putting a few screws in the old seal and pulling it out with pliers. (Do not repeat this process for the new seal) tap the new seal in with a piece of pvc of the same diameter.
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Post by ScubaSteve on Dec 8, 2014 11:34:29 GMT -5
No. I may try the ole brake Kleen spray while its runnin..... I'll post results. It may be running rich which would explain why it is dying like that. you can also try running it without restrictive air filters on it just to see if it is a rich fuel mixture causing the issue. Also I would visually check to make sure the choke is opening properly,you can do this by looking down the carb venturi and open the choke. That could definitely cause the motor to stall after warming up.
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Post by ScubaSteve on Dec 8, 2014 11:48:35 GMT -5
What colour are the spark plugs?
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Post by dishmando on Dec 8, 2014 19:58:53 GMT -5
If you're referring to the electrodes after pulling them out, they appear dry when I check them. Maybe a slight trace of fuel/oil.
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Post by dishmando on Dec 8, 2014 20:04:02 GMT -5
Missed your previous post Steve, but this machine doesn't have a choke. Nor did the carb. I could be missing something, but I think I know what I'd be looking for. Only thing this sled has up front is the kill tether, headlight switch, and primer on the right side.
Am I missing something??!!
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Post by dishmando on Dec 8, 2014 20:08:53 GMT -5
ill try removing the airbox while running it next. ive removed the battery to bring it to work and charge up. It seems we didn't do it properly the first time. On a side note, if I wanted to remove the oil injection and switch to premix, is it as simple as removing the oil feed line and capping it? Or does something special need to be done?
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